Dirk Uhlig.
Successful climbing professional.
In breezily altitude.
Dirk Uhlig
I was born in 1978 in Gera, Germany, which is rather low on rocks. After ending school, my path led to Erfurt. As a mid- and long-distance runner, I found the best conditions for training in Erfurt. I am now studying sports (physical education) and educational science at the University of Erfurt.
Date and place of birth: Gera
Residence: Erfurt
I have been climbing since: 2000
My highlights:
Bouldering:
Brutalga Square/ 7c+/ Thuringia/ 12.08/ RP
Arrache Coeur/ 7c/ Fontainebleau/ 04.09/ RP
La Balancette/ 7c/ Fontainebleau/ 04.09/ RP 2nd go
Hop Hop Hop/ 7b+/ Fontainebleau/ 04.09/ flash
Sport climbing:
Sagaro/ 8b/ Zillertal/ 06.09/ RP
Pati pa mi/ 8b/ Siurana/ 04.08/ RP
Lagrima/ 8b/ Thuringia/ Erstbegehung/ 08.08/ RP
Schräger Edi/ 8a/ Zillertal/ 06.09/ OS
Ganja/ 8a/ Zillertal/ 08.07/ Clean RP
Mission Impossible/ 8a+/ 08.07/ Clean
Crag-Alpine:
Phantom der Zinne/ Cima Grande/ 7c+/ 08.2007/ OS
Camillotto-Pellisier/ Cima Grande / 8a+/b / 08.2008/ RP
Perlen vor die Säue/ Cima Grande/ 7b+ /08.2008/ OS
Ötzi trifft Yeti/ Cima Grande/ 7a+/ 08.2007/ OS
Sponsored by SKYLOTEC—how did it happen?
I learned about SKYLOTEC through the Internet. I sent in an application to be a SKYLOTEC athlete and this was heard.
What does that mean to you?
SKYLOTEC has stood for innovative equipment for fall protection for 60 years. As a worker at heights, I know the value of high-quality equipment. As a climber, hanging by a thread, it is especially important to me to use equipment which conforms to the highest standards. SKYLOTEC is <b>the</b> creative company which has set the goal of not only surfing along on the mountaineering wave, but of enriching the mountaineering segment with a big wave, through new ideas and unique solutions for details.
How did you start climbing?
I caused trouble up to my twentieth year of life as a long-distance runner and triathlete. Through an (un)lucky accident, I got to know mountaineering, and was immediately hooked. Johannes Vogt from Erfurt was my climbing mentor and took me along right away to the biggest crags in Thuringia. The Hangelwest at Falkenstein was supposed to be my first tour. During the third belay, as Johannes had hurried ahead, it began to rain, I couldn't see my rope partner, and 60 meters up, I started to doubt the resilience of the climbing equipment. But none of that helped at all to free me from my newly caught climbing virus.
What's the most fun thing about climbing for you?
That climbing is never boring! How often you're hanging on the face and you have no idea. “How should I keep going up this rock?” And at the end, you find a new funky solution.
What is your biggest/highest goal in mountaineering?
“The best climber is not the one who masters the largest difficulties but the one who has the most fun doing it.” Traveling with people who motivate me and whom I can encourage are the essence of peak performance. My goal is to test my own limits and it stimulates me to put my ideas into practice.
What has been your biggest/highest success up to now?
Climbing the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Große Zinne) through the North Face, without needing a second attempt, and managing the hardest route on top of it and despite bad weather.
Danger/fear—important feelings in climbing. How do you personally handle them?
Everyone is scared sometimes! And it's a good thing! It keeps you from doing things without thinking. However, during climbing tours outside of the climbing gardens, it can be a hindrance to be scared. Dealing with fear and not ignoring it can be very exciting and a big challenge. .
Freedom—what does that mean for you in connection with climbing?
Having an idea and being able to do the first steps. Putting this dream into reality is “freedom” for me. Sitting on the peak after I have fulfilled my dream, and then realizign that it was only a part of the journey. Because from this peak, you only get a better view of the next, even harder face
Who is or are your role model(s) in professional mountaineering?
Beat Kammerlander through his eye for terrific routes and his ethics for first ascents.
What are your favourite climbing areas?
With every year that I climb, the number of my “favourite regions” climbs too. Because the number has become so large, I limit myself to one region per type of rock. Fontainebleau, Zillertal, Siurana, Thüringer Wald, Smith Rocks...
Which tips and tricks do you have for newbies to climbing sport?
It's better not to get started! Climbing is incredibly addictive! As a tip: At the beginning, if you don't trust yourself to look down when climbing, then at least turn yourselves around to be able to see into the distance!
Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. What else do you do in your free time?
Instruct climbing courses, screw in contest routes, do rope work at heights, build climbing gyms. If there's time left over, then I go climbing for me! My alternative programme is to end my programme of study in sport and listen to loud music.
Contests are a topic for you. How do you prepare for them?
I clean the climbing holds! I screw in the bolts on the routes for the contests.
Intensive training for contests. How often and where is that on your agenda?
Sonn in the best bouldering wall in the world. Starting in mid 2009, this will be in Erfurt. I will definitely pull on the holds there several times a week.
